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Assemble the Silver Press 4x1 Video

Open the Box and Build the Press

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What's In the Box

Benefits and Features of the Silver Press 4x1 Screen Printing Press
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Video Transcript

[Gary] Hi, I'm Gary Jurman with and I have Matt here. We just got our four over one Silver Press in, and he's going to help us build it. So, what's in the box, Matt?

[Matt] Well, let's find out. Pop it open, here.

Inside the box for the new Silver Press is another small box. We'll just set that to the side and we'll find out what's in it in a second.

We've got four color arms. This is going to hold your screen while you do your screen printing. We'll just set this to the side. There's 1, 2, 3, and 4.

We've got lot's of card board packing. Next we've got the base.

We've got our 16 x 16 platen.

[Gary] Seems kind of big, huh? We've got some instructions and some hardware. Better check this box. Make sure there's nothing floating around in there.

[Matt] Let's take a look in our smaller box and see what we have. We've got some more hardware, some wrenches, and an Allen wrench.

[Gary] Wow... This looks like a top quality tool.

[Matt] Yeah... [pulls a part out the small box] This is the rotary assembly. It will allow the press to spin smoothly as you change your different color heads. There's a top and a bottom to this.

[Gary] I was going to ask you about that.

[Matt] It comes top up in the box, with "Top" written on the box, but if you get confused or you set it down to the side, an easy thing to remember is the head of the bolts go on top, and the nuts go down.

[Gary] Head up, nut's down. OK. So this is everything we're supposed to have?

[Matt] Here's the list:

You need to decide where you want to mount your Silver Press. We're going to mount the base first.

[Gary] Got ya. Hey, this looks like a good place to put it.

[Matt] This looks like a nice sturdy work bench, yes.

So let's start by mounting our base to the bench.

Bench for Mounting Screen Printing Press

[Matt] We have four self-tapping screws. If you have a self-tapping screw, you don't necessarilly have to drill a pilot hole, but I do recommend using a drill or a screw gun to drive the screw. Otherwise it takes a lot of elbow grease.

[Gary] You'd have to twist on it for a while, huh?

[Matt] That's right. So I've got my drill and Phillips head attachment. [Matt zips the screws in]

[Gary] I think you cheated.

[Matt] I make it look too easy, right? [Reading instructions] The next thing to do is to attach the rotary assembly. That was the black plate with the bearings.

[Gary] Head up, nuts down.

[Matt] What I recommend doing before attaching it to the post, here, is we just want to give it a little tap to make sure all the bearings are aligned in the plate, itself.

[Gary] So, where are those bearings at?

[Matt] They're underneath the plate, here. On the bottom side there's another set.

[Gary] So you just kind of bang on it?

[Matt] You just want to give it a couple of light taps. [Taps both sides with the wrench]

[Gary] That kind of just looks like magic.

[Matt] It really is. It's more like voodoo. Just a couple of taps for luck.[Mounts the plate on the post]

You'll notice two Allen screws in the top and bottom. We've got a total of 4 screws, and we're going to turn 'em. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. We'll turn them to the right.

[Gary] So we're ready to print?

[Matt] Almost ready. Next we're going to take one of our head arms, and remove the tape. Here's our gas shock and our gas shock stabilizer. It has two bolts with two lock nuts on it. If they are not there, check the box.

[Gary] You really want to check the box in case something shook off. Make sure no hardware is in there.

[Matt] In attaching the stabilizer, you're going to want to put the one on the bolt in the back first. Put both bolts at the same time, so that way it lines up, but then start with your lock-nut on the back one first. If you put the front one on first, it makes putting the back one on harder.

I'll show you that it can be done with the supplied wrenches.

[Gary] You can do it, but probably a socket set would be better.

[Matt] So put the wrench and your thumb on the bolt head, push the front bolt up just a bit, so it's out of the way, and then just tighten the nut on the bottom until you get all the way up to the top. Get it nice and snug.

Ok. We have the first one set. Now again with the front bolt. That's one down, now only three to go.

[Gary] So are we going to put all those stabilers on first, or can we just mount the head next?

[Matt] We'll you do want to always attach the stabilizer first, but after that, you can mount the rest of them if you like. Or if you're like, Hey Man, I want to see how this works!

[Gary] That's what I feel like.

[Matt] All right. We'll do that, then. We'll attach the head arm next.

What you want to do is attach the rod ends to the holes on either side of the stabilizer bolts you just attached. Just bolt it on using the bolts that are screwed into the rod ends. Just start the bolts into both the rod ends a few threads deep, so they're not falling out. Then just hand tighten them both, and then follow up with the wrench.

Now the only thing left to do to make this operational is to take the gas shock, and snap the open end onto the little ball under the head arm. It just snaps right on, and that's it. [pushes the head-arm down to demonstate how it operates]

[Gary] Sweet! So the shock holds it up, but it feels kind of stiff. That's OK, though, because it does have to be able to hold up the screen, ink, and squeegee.

[Matt] Yeah, the weight won't make it come down. But the screen will give you leverage so it will operate easilly.

Next we mount the rest of the arms the same way.

[Time Lapses]

[Matt] All right. We'll pop this last gas shock on, and there we go.

[Gary] Sweet!

[Matt] That was a lot of work, but we have our four color arms on.

Our next step is going to be to attach the platten. This is our 16 x 16 inch platten. It has knobs on the bottom. Here's the neck of the platten, and it will face outward. We just tighten it on the bottom. [Twists knob]

[Gary] You want to leave room for the head to come down. You can adjust it when you clamp in some screens.

[Matt] Yes. And,if you wanted to print team mate names on the backs of jerseys, you could burn a small tier of names down the screen, and then slide the platen after each name to get the prints in the right spot. That will save you screen space.

Your screen is going to set right in there like this. [puts screen in the press] Your print side goes down toward the platen, and your ink side is up. You've got two knobs to tighten the screen in once you get it in register. Then you see it falls right down in place onto your platen.

[Gary] OK Great, and then this arm falls right between these little teflon screws, here.

[Matt] Yes. this is your registration gate. The teflon screws rub right against the side of these color arms [indcates where]. They hold the arm in place while your screen is printed.

[Gary] They keep the screen from wiggling back and forth when you drop the screen.

What if you want a little bit of space, like you want to get a little bit of off-conatct? [holds the screen about a 1/4 inch up above the platen and pushes on the mesh of the screen, flexing the mesh and poking down on the platen]/p>

[Matt] Yes. Sometimes, for some screen printing, you need to have off-contatct. Maybe the width of a quarter [coin] distance between your screen and the platen. Sometimes even 2 quarters' width.

How you do that, if you look on the back of the print head, there is a nut on each side. You see the nut on a bolt that runs through a long groove. Use a 9/16ths wrench to loosen the nuts and you can raise or lower the screen's resting point from the platen. Then you just tighten it into the spot you need it.

[Gary] We'll, what if I just want to take a little short cut? Can I just adjust this thing right here? [indicates the screen stop bolt that is centered in the registration gate]

[Matt] No. You never want to adjust that. What that does... It is not an off-contact adjustment. It is what stops each and all of the arms at a specific level for all of them. You need a constant point of reference for them all.

If you need to adjust the off-contact, just use the adjustment on the back of the head.

[Gary] Right. It's not really a good idea to adjust your off-contact at this point, anyway. [indicates a position on the arm near the registration gate] Because different arms may need a different level of off-contact,and that would adjust them for all of the arms, not just one of them.

This screen [indicates head #1] may need one quarter's width off-contact, and then this screen [indicates head #2] may need two quarters' widths. Maybe you are pulling a different ink, or a mesh with different qualities.

If you adjuested that, like you are not supposed to, then it would not be screen specific.

[Matt] Right. It would affect all four of the heads instead of just the one you need.

[Gary] Ok, good. So we're ready to rock. We need to burn some screens, and print some shirts, and sell them like hotcakes!

[Matt] You are ready to rock-and-roll!

[Narrator] for more information and screen printing supplies go to

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